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Check the felt or straw first. Good felt feels dense and smooth, and good straw has a tight, even weave. Look for a sturdy sweatband, clean stitching, a crown that holds its pinch, and a brim that keeps its shape.

A lined hat has a fabric layer inside the crown that gives a finished look, a bit of extra warmth, and a smooth feel. Unlined hats are lighter and more breathable, making them a better pick for warm weather and straw styles.

These terms describe how the top of the hat is creased. A center dent has one lengthwise crease, a teardrop tapers toward the front with pinches on both sides, and a cattleman has a center crease with a dent along each side, the classic western shape.

Rest it upside down on its crown or hang it on a hat rack, never flat on its brim, which can warp it. Keep it out of hot cars and direct sun. A hat box protects felt and straw hats during travel or the off season.

Brush it regularly with a soft hat brush, working counterclockwise with the nap, to lift dust. Spot clean marks with a dry sponge or lint roller instead of water. If the sweatband gets damp, let the hat air dry fully before storing it.